Friday, November 9, 2012

Anteaus/ Nicewell tour

a flat seam machine is being used here.
     Our visit to Anteaus gave a cohesive overview of the cut and sew process. In their facility, they produce mostly sportswear, because of the machine capabilities that they have. *Factories can all have different machines. Some facilities have capabilities for denim, others for sportswear, etc.* One specific machine that accommodates for this niche market is the flat seam machine that they use. The seamstress feeds the pieces into the machine with the seams side by side, the machine overlocks them together and trims any excess. There is a tube that sucks out that excess to keep the machine clean.
pattern pieces being cut out
     The cut and sew process is the most common in the industry. Think of your own garments, how many are fully fashioned (yarns linked at the seams) and how many are sewn together? The process begins with a manufacturer designing the styles and creating a marker. The marker is a lay out of the most cost efficient placement of pattern pieces. The specs for the marker are sent to the producer and printed out there. The marker is placed on top of many layers of fabric and pinned through each layer. The fabric is then cut with an electric blade. *the operator has to wear a chain maille glove to protect his hand*
Heat set machine and template
     After the fabric is cut, if required, a logo is heat set onto each piece, respectively. There is a template given to the operator to ensure that each logo is properly placed on every piece needed. A ticket is kept with each group of pieces to keep track of the production as well as how much the employees are finishing. Employees can be paid a bonus for producing more than their quota, if they do not meet the quota, they are paid minimum wage. Cost comes in to play here, because federal minimum wage is $7.25, California's minimum was is $8.00. This is a HUGE jump from the cost of labor in other countries, where it can cost pennies an hour to produce garments. Afther the fabric is cut, if required, a logo is heat set onto each piece that it is needed. There is a template given to the operator to ensure that each logon is properly placed on every piece. A ticket is kept with each group of pieces to keep track of the production of the garments as well as the efficiency in which the seamstresses are working at.
packaging for an up and coming brand of youthful yoga wear
     
 Employees can be paid a bonus for producing more than their quota, if they do not meet the quota, they are paid minimum wage. Cost comes in to play here, because federal minimum wage is $7.25, California's minimum was is $8.00. This is a HUGE jump from the cost of labor in other countries, where it can cost pennies an hour to produce garments. 
     The pieces move on to the machines. Each seamstress is responsible for one seam, they sew that same one all day, and they are proficient at it. The garment is then heat set and finished and all tagging and packaging takes place. Packaging also plays a huge role in the cost of a garment. The plastic bags used for shipping cost money and that cost trickles down to the consumer. After the order is packed up and ready to go, it is shipped to the manufacturer distribution centers.

  

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